Professional
HairStyling...By You
HairStyling...By now you’ve determined your shape face,
hair texture and have learned creative ways to hide or enhance your unique
features. Now it’s time to unveil hair styling techniques used by the
professionals to obtain that salon look at home.
Skin like a baby's may be every woman's lifelong desire.
But hair like a baby's? Soft and silken as it may be to an admirer's touch,
its picture book wisps are more unmanageable than an unruly two year old.
Ask any woman who must cope daily with this hair that just never grew up.
Fine hair falls flat on your ear right after styling,
refusing to take orders from brush or comb. It goes limp in summer and flies
away in a disorderly halo in winter. And with its notoriously unfair share
of flexibility or resilience, it limits its wearer to comparatively few
styles.
What fine hair lacks is the body which makes it possible
to put hair in its place and keep it there. Because of this, you’ll need to
create an illusion of fullness or add it via chemical processes.
Many hairstylists believe the best way to bolster fine
hair is to blunt cut each strand. They strive for a layer on layer
arrangement to make each line of hair spring up to give the effect of
considerably more body.
And should your stylist begin to cut your hair to a short
or medium length, don't try to stop him.
People with fine hair hate to part with any of it. But
the sheer weight of long hair only drags it down and makes it look thinner.
Most baby fine hair looks best when cut to a medium length.
So forget about an all American girl pageboy look or
styles which feature wings of hair swooping down over your ears.
Bangs, if your forehead can take them, are a boon. These
fringe benefits add fullness and mask undistinguished hairlines.
As essential as a good style is a soft permanent which
will give your hair body. Your stylist may recommend preconditioning. But
whether you roll your own permanent or go to a salon, be sure the lotion
used is gentle and a test curl is taken. Frizziness must be avoided at all
costs.
Very fine, extra limp hair should, if possible, be permed
in a salon where the procedure can be under constant control by a
professional. Extremely fine hair tends to lose elasticity easily and could,
if improperly handled, become even limper than before.
Do…
-
While blowing your hair dry, use metal hair brushes.
Metal will get hot from the heat of the dryer and act as a “curling
iron”
-
Hold the dryer about six inches away from your head.
-
Add volume by applying a product that creates lift
before drying
-
Wash your hair with volumizing shampoo. Follow up
with volumizing conditioner and volumizing Styling Products
-
Consider a chemical process preferably hair color but
a body perm will do the trick too. Chemical processes raise the hair
shaft increasing the diameter of the hair making it appear thicker and
fuller.
-
If you wear a bang, make it short and thick. This
also gives the hair the illusion of being thicker and fuller.
-
When conditioning your hair, apply only to the ends,
NOT the scalp.
Don’t…
-
Stay away from styles that require a lot of blow
drying, perms and hair care products that contain large amounts of
alcohol.
-
Do not use heavy or strong holding styling products,
they’ll weigh your hair down. Instead use “light” Styling Products such
as mousse.
-
Even think about having your hair razor cut.
-
Let your hair get heavy with length. It will only
weigh your hair down and make it look straggly and thin.
-
Double process your hair. If you color DON'T perm. If
you PERM, don't color.
-
Dry you hair in one spot for more than a few seconds.
Keep the dryer moving.
Products to Use...
When using products for this type of hair, you do not
need to use “Volumizing” products from beginning (shampoo) to end
(hairspray.
For example; if your hair is chemically treated and you
can not find a shampoo or conditioner for chemically treated hair that also
adds volume, buy the shampoo for chemically treated hair (to add moisture
and repair) and get the volume you desire with volumizing Styling Products
such as mousse or gel.
How much product used is determined by what type of
product you’re using and how thin/fine your hair. For Styling Products, the
lighter the product, the more you should use. As for shampoos and
conditioners, the size of a dime to a nickel should be sufficient.
Shampoo
Shampoo fine, oily hair frequently with a shampoo
formulated for this type hair. When it becomes dirty its weight tends to
drag hair down and make it look thinner.
If your fine hair is neither dry nor oily, use a shampoo
made for normal hair.
Color or Highlighted
Shampoo
These shampoos are designed to enhance or enrich the
color of your hair whether it is your natural color or color treated hair.
They are slightly pigmented and are a gradual process.
Chemically Treated Hair
Shampoo
(If your hair is colored or permed)
These shampoos are for used for colored, permed,
highlighted, bleached and chemically straitened hair. They contain
ingredients to moisturize and strengthen hair that is weakened by a chemical
process.
Clarifying Shampoo
(Two to Three times a month)
These shampoos are formulated to clarify the hair of
pollution, chlorine and Styling Products - all of which will weigh your hair
down. Do not use on a daily basis but rather weekly or twice a month in
addition to the shampoo you use on a daily basis.
Volumizing Shampoo
The main ingredients allow the strands of hair to “plump”
creating a temporary volume. They can be found in many combinations
including; volumizing/moisturizing, and volumizing/color enhancing
Conditioner
Should you condition? Well, if you have hair then the
answer is… “YES”.
Conditioners have gotten a bad wrap. And the reasons for
this are they are being used for the wrong reason or the wrong type of
conditioner is being used.
First the reasons for using a conditioner:
Choosing the
right conditioner is key:
Healthy Hair
Your hair needs conditioner to prevent the “fly a ways”,
to detangle and to prevent static and future splint ends.
Dry Hair
Your hair needs to be repaired and moisturized. Use a
conditioner that states it’s for dry hair and follow the directions for use.
Damaged Hair
Your hair needs to be rebuilt from the inside out. Choose
a deep conditioner formulated for fine/thin hair which you leave on your
hair for at least 5 up to 20 minutes.
The number one reason I hear as to why people don’t like
conditioner?
“It weighs my
hair down.”
Do you want to know a little secret? There is no
conditioner (formulated for your hair type) in this world that will weigh
your hair down.
All these years you were blaming it on the conditioner
when in reality; the conditioner wasn’t the problem, you were. “It” doesn’t
weigh your hair down - you do.
Don’t be offended. I’m sure it’s not your fault. Probably
your stylist didn’t recommend the correct conditioner or if she did, I’ll
guarantee she didn’t stress the fact you need to rinse, rinse and rinse some
more.
Don’t be afraid of rinsing too much. You can’t over
rinse. The fact is, your hair is as intelligent as you are, it uses only
what it needs and that’s it.
Don’t believe me? Next time you put the correct
conditioner on your hair, rinse it out thoroughly, until you hear it
“squeak” - I guarantee you will not have limp hair and your hair will still
be silky and conditioned.
Styling Products
Hairspray
Select a spray by the desired amount of hold. Use the
product sparingly.
Volumizers
Volumizing products come in many forms from shampoo and
conditioner to gels, mousse and creams. Apply according to the directions on
the product.
Thickeners
Are heat activated and will not work without the heat of
a blow dryer. They add more volume than volumizing products, however there
is a trade off. Thickeners create a “matte” look as opposed to volumizing
products that give more of a shine.
To apply, start at the nape, from underneath the hair
moving towards the crown. Comb the product thru evenly. Blow hair upside
down until almost dry. Flip your head up then dry in the direction of the
desired style.
How To Wear Your Hair
Creativity plays the most important role in styling fine
/ thin hair. From choosing just the right products, hair cut and styling
tricks, in order to give your hair the illusion of being thicker and more
voluminous than it really is.
Note:
Although there’s a big difference in fine vs. thin hair (thin hair is merely
a “lack” of hair), both have similar styling techniques. To simplify, we’ve
condensed “Styling Your Hair” to include both Fine and Thin as a whole.
How To Style Your Hair
Tips:
-
The larger the roller, the looser the curl will be.
-
The longer you leave your rollers in, the longer the curl will last.
(The minimum amount of time should be 10 minutes. Use your own
judgment.)
-
Give rollers a “shot” of cold air (before removing them) with your blow
dryer. This will set the curl and give you a longer lasting style.
-
For firm, crunchy curls, (a more formal than casual look), apply a light
styling gel to each strand of hair before rolling it with the iron or
roller.
To Learn More
HairStyling Techniques and How
To's including;
Hot Appliances for Volume
Hot Rollers
Curling
Iron
Straightening Iron
Back Comb
the Crown for Lift
Blow Drying for Volume
Root Pull
Blow Your
Hair in the Opposite Direction
Dry Your
Hair Upside Down
Products for Volume
Thickening
shampoo
Volumizing
Spray
Chemical Processes for Volume
Hair Color
Perms
Hair Cuts for Volume
Layers
Adding Hair for Volume
Hair
Extensions or Hair Pieces
Thick, coarse hair knows all its constitutional rights
and then some. It wants complete independence to go its own stubborn way.
What these lawless locks need is a universal training program.
Thick, coarse hair comes in several varieties: floor mop,
dust mop, steel wool and wire brush. Obviously the first thing to do is to
know your opponent, then plan your campaign accordingly.
The attack will take time, patience and imagination. But
once your hair has agreed to compromise and recognize you as mistress of
its new frontier, you will find you have one quality silken haired ladies
will never have, superior body and resilience.
Thick hair, incidentally, is more apt to be your problem
if you are a redhead. Blonde hair usually comes in the finest denier and
brunette in medium.
Thick, Straight and Coarse
This hair responds to skillful cutting, constant
conditioning, and just the suggestion of a permanent to make it more
malleable.
Run, do not walk to the nearest and best stylist. Your
temptation may be to beg him to thin it, and thin it, and thin it again.
Resist. Coarse hair should be reduced in bulk not by pruning but by tricky
tapering and layering. Excessive weeding will make your hair bounce up into
bush formation.
Once you do get your hair into a sleek shape, make every
effort to keep it streamlined. Coarse thick hair grows faster than weeds.
Never skip a trimming appointment. And speaking of trimming, be meticulous
about keeping eyebrows well groomed.
If your hair boasts no natural wave, invest in a good
permanent or rather the hint of a suggestion of one. Coarse hair takes to
perm solution like a dog to a bone. Just enough wave to make your hair
controllable is all you really need.
Your hairstylist will probably suggest a short hairstyle,
depending, of course, on facial structure. Too coarse, too thick, too long
hair is too heavy to handle. Short but not too short or else it would be
wiry is the most manageable length.
Now, sit back and enjoy what is good about coarse hair.
It not only takes a good permanent, it takes an excellent setting and is
probably the healthiest of all hair. Combing, you have no doubt long since
noticed, does next to nothing for your hair.
Thick, Coarse, and Curly
You're a human dust mop. Adopt a short, soft hairstyle.
Indulge in deep conditioning treatments and shampoos for dry hair. Rub
conditioners into hair ends. Use pomade while still damp and put up on large
rollers or allow drying naturally and then apply a liquid or spray shine as
a final touch.
Wiry Hair
Don't fight coarse, straight hair. Work with it. The less
you have the better. Have an expert cut and shape it. Use pomade while still
damp and put up on large rollers or allow drying naturally and then apply a
liquid or spray shine as a final touch.
Kinky, Exceptionally
Coarse and Curly
Consider seriously the advantages of having hair
straightened.
Do's…
-
Use a moisturizing shampoo (determined by the
condition of your hair) that contains humectants.
-
Avoid using overly hot dryers as well as any other
heat producing styling appliance.
-
Wear a hat or scarf if you're going to be exposed to
sun or wind for a long time. Also use hair care products containing a UV
sunscreen.
-
Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week.
-
Let your hair dry naturally. Blow drying will cause
“volume”. And generally, thick hair has just enough volume naturally
without adding to it.
-
Wash and dry (this is the only exception for the blow
dryer) your hair before you go to bed. This gives your natural oils time
to work, smoothing your hair for the morning.
-
Have your hair thinned with thinning shears when you
have it cut. But do not over do it! A light thinning will give the
best results.
-
Use a “molding” product on your hair when it’s dry.
Don’ts…
-
Use leave-in conditioners which lead to the
appearance of dry, dull hair.
-
Wash your hair every day. Rather every 3 – 4 days.
-
Chemically process your hair unless you know for a
fact it won’t ruin your hair.
Straight haired women may envy
the girl with the really curly hair, but if they only knew the price you
ringlet beauties have to pay.
Each rebellious lock goes its
separate way. When the temperature humidity index soars you can barely run a
comb through the snarls. When it plummets you are sure your head could
double as an emergency transmitter in an electric power breakdown. And when
you've been foolish in the sun your hair becomes "a sea of desert."
But you do have one of the
greatest of all hair blessings body and with this all kinds of beautiful
things are possible.
Actually, there are many types
of curly hair:
Slightly Wavy
Nature has given your hair
a soft body wave which is perfect for current styles that are more line
than curl.
Strongly Wavy
While some experts deplore
perming curly hair, others recommend a light permanent on large rollers
to widen the waves for styling and to slightly curl straight ends, if
you happen to have them.
Slightly Curly
This is ideal. You can
achieve wonderful results by simply setting with large rollers.
More Than Slightly Curly
Some hair stylists
recommend straightening with a permanent wave solution. Others recommend
using a straightening cream, which they believe is more effective
because it is more manageable.
Frizzy
Most hair stylists
recommend control with a straightening cream. But before you decide on
the straight and narrow path for your hair, make a date with a good
stylist. For women with too much of a good thing, some hairstylists
recommend appealing to gravity with longer hair. Others just as
staunchly defend the shorter look, pointing out that longer hair can get
completely out of control.
Just about the kindest cut of
all, according to a census of top stylists, is the blunt cut. Tapering
encourages curl, as we've seen with straight hair.
Curly hair should not be cut
quite as short as straight hair. Cut too short, it tends to bounce up and
away.
Banish an unattractive arid
look with regular deep conditioning treatments. Always use a shampoo for dry
hair. Follow with a conditioner to add extra softness and manageability.
If nature has given your hair
a pleasing natural pattern as well as curl, take your cue from her. If not,
style hair in a direction opposite to that of your natural curl.
Both moisture and heat are
natural enemies of curly hair. All hair is hygroscopic, but curly hair is
especially thirsty for moisture. Wear two bathing caps when you go swimming.
Always carry a tiny, folding rain hat. And avoid hot, steamy showers.
Keep curly hair out of the sun
as much as possible. One reckless day of exposure may have to be paid for by
weeks of conditioning.
And as if you didn't have
enough problems already, coloring hair which is either medium or tightly
curled is best when limited to temporary or longer lasting rinses for
permanent haircolor makes hair even dryer, fuzzy and even more unmanageable.
For the most part, the care
for naturally curly hair is the same as for coarse hair. However, there are
some tricks that apply to natural curl only.
Do's…
-
Use a diffuser attachment
when drying your hair.
-
Use a moisturizing shampoo
(determined by the condition of your hair) that contains humectants.
-
Avoid using overly hot
dryers as well as any other heat producing styling appliance.
-
Wear a hat or scarf if
you're going to be exposed to sun or wind for a long time. Also use hair
care products containing a UV sunscreen.
-
Use a deep conditioning
treatment once a week.
Don’ts…
-
Use leave-in conditioners
which lead to the appearance of dry, dull hair.
-
Wash your hair every day.
Rather every 3 – 4 days (longer if you can stand it).
-
Chemically process your
hair unless you know for a fact it won’t ruin your hair.
-
Work with your curls by
using a blow dryer with a diffuser. The diffuser prevents natural curl
from being “whipped” around by the air from the dryer thus causing fly
away, frizzy hair. It instead uses just the heat from the dryer to dry
your curls nicely.
-
Use a styling aid such as
pomade, gel or mousse. How do you choose which product is right for
your hair? The more thick or coarse your hair, the stronger hold you
need.
Note: Use
products that are “humidity” proof.
-
Keep your hair trimmed on
a regular basis. Naturally curly hair splits easily. Keep your hair in
long layers for a “bouncy” curl effect or one length for a “wavy”
effect.
-
Never brush your hair.
Your fingers or a wide tooth pick will do the trick.
Products to Use
Coarse hair does not need to
be shampooed on a daily basis. The recommended amount of times you shampoo
will solely depend on your personal preference and familiarity with your own
hair (how long you can get away without shampooing), the longer, the better.
Use products with
asiliconeserum (silicone) to smooth and fill in the open cuticle of your
hair strand. This will also seal in moisture and add shine
Shampoo
Moisturizing Shampoo
Contains at least one
conditioning agent to add moisture and add shine, making the hair smooth.
Color or Highlighted Shampoo
These shampoos are designed to
enhance or enrich the color of your hair whether it is your natural color or
color treated hair. They are slightly pigmented and are a gradual process.
Look for a shampoo that is also moisturizing.
Chemically Treated Shampoo
These shampoos are for
colored, permed, highlighted, bleached and chemically straitened hair. These
shampoos contain ingredients to moisturize and strengthen hair that is
weakened by a chemical process.
Clarifying Shampoo
These shampoos are formulated
to clarify the hair of pollution, chlorine and Styling Products. Do not use
on a daily basis but rather two to four times a month.
Conditioner
If you have coarse hair
you need a conditioner that contains humectants and adds moisture to dry
hair. Use this type of conditioner on a daily basis.
You should deep condition on a
weekly basis with a rich, moisturizing conditioner formulated for your hair
type, to replenish or add the extra moisture your hair lacks.
If your hair is also brittle,
you should use a masked formulated for your hair type, about two times a
month.
Styling Products
Hair Spray
Select a spray by the desired
amount of hold. To increase shine or subdue frizz, use accordingly.
Pomades, Glossers and Shiners
Apply them…SPARINGLY! Liquefy
the product between your palms and smooth it over the surface.
Waxes
Rub between the palms of your
hands then apply to all of your hair or just “spot” apply where you want
more definition i.e. sideburns, lift roots straight up for spiking.
How to Style Your Hair
The key to shinny, coarse hair
or hair with natural curl is...
To Learn More
HairStyling Techniques and How
To's including;
Hot Appliances Smoothing/Straightening
Hair Brush and Blow Dryer
Non Heat Rollers
Hot Rollers
Curling Iron
Straightening Iron
"Only the good dye young." A
famous actress said turning a cliché when asked why she prefers to polish
her silvery locks rather than to bleach or color. But, it's the rare stylist
who would agree with the popular actress. Most believe there are few mature
women with faces youthful enough to carry gray or white hair.
And come to think of it, they
do have a point.
Too Young To Go Gray?
Even though everyone knows you
are in your twenties, you don't want to be the only gray head among your
peers. Hide uninvited gray hair with a long lasting (one month) rinse
especially designed to bury gray. It adds highlights and conditions, but
does not leave brassy top notes.
Approaching Forty, But You
Want To Keep Your Age Secret?
Color your hair at least two
shades lighter for flattery as well as anti gray security. Fading hair and
eyes require a softer background.
Color lighter whether you're
dark haired and going gray dramatically, or blonde and going gray in the
dullest of all possible fashions.
Going To Let Nature Take Its
Course?
Just because your hair is
graying is no reason to let it go dowdy, too. There's no need for depressing
gray heads anymore, thanks to modern styling and the wide spectrum of gray
glamorizing rinses.
Grey Hair
Style
Rome had a glorious Silver
Age. So can you. Inaugurate it with a new style. Don't coast along on the
same old hairstyle you've been wearing for years...
To
Learn More About Grey Hair
Including:
Permanents
Shampoos
Conditioning
Rinses
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