Hair Lessons Publications 2008                                                                                                                                Home

In This Issue

NewsStand information at your finger tips all day, everyday. And it's FREE!

 

Celebrity HairStyles

2008 HairStyles

Bridal Hair Styles

Hair Care Products

HairColor

Hair Loss

Hair Removal

Choosing the Right HairStyle

The Professional Stylist...YOU

Various HairStyles

Updo's / Braids

Styling Snafu's

Online Hair Resources

Hair Extensions

Hair Facts

Sedu Hair Styles

Virtual HairStyles

 

 

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Step by Step Home HairCuts

In Depth HairCare Products

In Depth Home HairColor

In Depth Hair Removal

Complicated Hair Fixes

Braiding Styles

Updo's / Formal Styles

HairStyling Technique

Home Perms

Over 250 Magazine Pages!!

Link to Us

 

Professional HairStyling...By You

 

 

 

HairStyling...By now you’ve determined your shape face, hair texture and have learned creative ways to hide or enhance your unique features. Now it’s time to unveil hair styling techniques used by the professionals to obtain that salon look at home.

 

 

Fine / Thin Texture

 

Skin like a baby's may be every woman's lifelong desire. But hair like a baby's? Soft and silken as it may be to an admirer's touch, its picture book wisps are more unmanageable than an unruly two year old. Ask any woman who must cope daily with this hair that just never grew up.

 

Fine hair falls flat on your ear right after styling, refusing to take orders from brush or comb. It goes limp in summer and flies away in a disorderly halo in winter. And with its notoriously unfair share of flexibility or resilience, it limits its wearer to comparatively few styles.

 

What fine hair lacks is the body which makes it possible to put hair in its place and keep it there. Because of this, you’ll need to create an illusion of fullness or add it via chemical processes.

 

Many hairstylists believe the best way to bolster fine hair is to blunt cut each strand. They strive for a layer on layer arrangement to make each line of hair spring up to give the effect of considerably more body.

 

And should your stylist begin to cut your hair to a short or medium length, don't try to stop him.

 

People with fine hair hate to part with any of it. But the sheer weight of long hair only drags it down and makes it look thinner. Most baby fine hair looks best when cut to a medium length.

 

So forget about an all American girl pageboy look or styles which feature wings of hair swooping down over your ears.

 

Bangs, if your forehead can take them, are a boon. These fringe benefits add fullness and mask undistinguished hairlines.

 

As essential as a good style is a soft permanent which will give your hair body. Your stylist may recommend preconditioning. But whether you roll your own permanent or go to a salon, be sure the lotion used is gentle and a test curl is taken. Frizziness must be avoided at all costs.

 

Very fine, extra limp hair should, if possible, be permed in a salon where the procedure can be under constant control by a professional. Extremely fine hair tends to lose elasticity easily and could, if improperly handled, become even limper than before.

     

Do…

  • While blowing your hair dry, use metal hair brushes. Metal will get hot from the heat of the dryer and act as a “curling iron”

  • Hold the dryer about six inches away from your head.

  • Add volume by applying a product that creates lift before drying

  • Wash your hair with volumizing shampoo. Follow up with volumizing conditioner and volumizing Styling Products

  • Consider a chemical process preferably hair color but a body perm will do the trick too. Chemical processes raise the hair shaft increasing the diameter of the hair making it appear thicker and fuller.

  • If you wear a bang, make it short and thick. This also gives the hair the illusion of being thicker and fuller.

  • When conditioning your hair, apply only to the ends, NOT the scalp.

 Don’t…

  • Stay away from styles that require a lot of blow drying, perms and hair care products that contain large amounts of alcohol.

  • Do not use heavy or strong holding styling products, they’ll weigh your hair down. Instead use “light” Styling Products such as mousse.

  • Even think about having your hair razor cut.

  • Let your hair get heavy with length. It will only weigh your hair down and make it look straggly and thin.

  • Double process your hair. If you color DON'T perm. If you PERM, don't color.

  • Dry you hair in one spot for more than a few seconds. Keep the dryer moving.

 

Products to Use...

When using products for this type of hair, you do not need to use “Volumizing” products from beginning (shampoo) to end (hairspray.

 

For example; if your hair is chemically treated and you can not find a shampoo or conditioner for chemically treated hair that also adds volume, buy the shampoo for chemically treated hair (to add moisture and repair) and get the volume you desire with volumizing Styling Products such as mousse or gel.

 

How much product used is determined by what type of product you’re using and how thin/fine your hair. For Styling Products, the lighter the product, the more you should use. As for shampoos and conditioners, the size of a dime to a nickel should be sufficient.

 

 

Shampoo

Shampoo fine, oily hair frequently with a shampoo formulated for this type hair. When it becomes dirty its weight tends to drag hair down and make it look thinner.

 

If your fine hair is neither dry nor oily, use a shampoo made for normal hair.

 
 
Color or Highlighted Shampoo

These shampoos are designed to enhance or enrich the color of your hair whether it is your natural color or color treated hair. They are slightly pigmented and are a gradual process.

 

 
Chemically Treated Hair Shampoo

(If your hair is colored or permed)

These shampoos are for used for colored, permed, highlighted, bleached and chemically straitened hair. They contain ingredients to moisturize and strengthen hair that is weakened by a chemical process.

 

 
Clarifying Shampoo

(Two to Three times a month)

These shampoos are formulated to clarify the hair of pollution, chlorine and Styling Products - all of which will weigh your hair down. Do not use on a daily basis but rather weekly or twice a month in addition to the shampoo you use on a daily basis.

 

 
Volumizing Shampoo

The main ingredients allow the strands of hair to “plump” creating a temporary volume. They can be found in many combinations including; volumizing/moisturizing, and volumizing/color enhancing

 

 

Conditioner

Should you condition?  Well, if you have hair then the answer is… “YES”.

 

Conditioners have gotten a bad wrap. And the reasons for this are they are being used for the wrong reason or the wrong type of conditioner is being used.

 

First the reasons for using a conditioner:

  • Your hair is dry.

  • Prevention of static electricity.

  • As a detangler.

  • To rebuild damaged hair.

 

Choosing the right conditioner is key:

 
Healthy Hair

Your hair needs conditioner to prevent the “fly a ways”, to detangle and to prevent static and future splint ends.

 
 
Dry Hair

Your hair needs to be repaired and moisturized. Use a conditioner that states it’s for dry hair and follow the directions for use.

 
 
Damaged Hair

Your hair needs to be rebuilt from the inside out. Choose a deep conditioner formulated for fine/thin hair which you leave on your hair for at least 5 up to 20 minutes.

 

The number one reason I hear as to why people don’t like conditioner?

 

“It weighs my hair down.”

 

Do you want to know a little secret? There is no conditioner (formulated for your hair type) in this world that will weigh your hair down.

 

All these years you were blaming it on the conditioner when in reality; the conditioner wasn’t the problem, you were. “It” doesn’t weigh your hair down - you do.

 

Don’t be offended. I’m sure it’s not your fault. Probably your stylist didn’t recommend the correct conditioner or if she did, I’ll guarantee she didn’t stress the fact you need to rinse, rinse and rinse some more.

 

Don’t be afraid of rinsing too much. You can’t over rinse. The fact is, your hair is as intelligent as you are, it uses only what it needs and that’s it.

 

Don’t believe me? Next time you put the correct conditioner on your hair, rinse it out thoroughly, until you hear it “squeak” - I guarantee you will not have limp hair and your hair will still be silky and conditioned.

 

 

Styling Products

 
Hairspray

Select a spray by the desired amount of hold. Use the product sparingly.

 
 
Volumizers

Volumizing products come in many forms from shampoo and conditioner to gels, mousse and creams. Apply according to the directions on the product.

 
 
Thickeners

Are heat activated and will not work without the heat of a blow dryer. They add more volume than volumizing products, however there is a trade off. Thickeners create a “matte” look as opposed to volumizing products that give more of a shine.

 

To apply, start at the nape, from underneath the hair moving towards the crown. Comb the product thru evenly. Blow hair upside down until almost dry. Flip your head up then dry in the direction of the desired style.

 

 

How To Wear Your Hair

Creativity plays the most important role in styling fine / thin hair. From choosing just the right products, hair cut and styling tricks, in order to give your hair the illusion of being thicker and more voluminous than it really is.

 

 

 

Note:

Although there’s a big difference in fine vs. thin hair (thin hair is merely a “lack” of hair), both have similar styling techniques. To simplify, we’ve condensed “Styling Your Hair” to include both Fine and Thin as a whole.

 

 

How To Style Your Hair

Tips:

  • The larger the roller, the looser the curl will be.

  • The longer you leave your rollers in, the longer the curl will last. (The minimum amount of time should be 10 minutes. Use your own judgment.)

  • Give rollers a “shot” of cold air (before removing them) with your blow dryer.  This will set the curl and give you a longer lasting style.

  • For firm, crunchy curls, (a more formal than casual look), apply a light styling gel to each strand of hair before rolling it with the iron or roller.

 

To Learn More HairStyling Techniques and How To's including;

 

Hot Appliances for Volume

Hot Rollers
Curling Iron
Straightening Iron
Back Comb the Crown for Lift

Blow Drying for Volume

Root Pull
Blow Your Hair in the Opposite Direction
Dry Your Hair Upside Down 

Products for Volume

Thickening shampoo
Volumizing Spray

Chemical Processes for Volume

Hair Color
Perms

Hair Cuts for Volume

Layers

Adding Hair for Volume

Hair Extensions or Hair Pieces

 

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Thick / Coarse Texture

 

Thick, coarse hair knows all its constitutional rights and then some. It wants complete independence to go its own stubborn way. What these lawless locks need is a universal training program.

 

Thick, coarse hair comes in several varieties: floor mop, dust mop, steel wool and wire brush. Obviously the first thing to do is to know your opponent, then plan your campaign accordingly.

 

The attack will take time, patience and imagination. But once your hair has agreed to compromise and recognize you as mistress of its new frontier, you will find you have one quality silken haired ladies will never have, superior body and resilience.

 

Thick hair, incidentally, is more apt to be your problem if you are a redhead. Blonde hair usually comes in the finest denier and brunette in medium.

 

 

Thick, Straight and Coarse

This hair responds to skillful cutting, constant conditioning, and just the suggestion of a permanent to make it more malleable.

 

Run, do not walk to the nearest and best stylist. Your temptation may be to beg him to thin it, and thin it, and thin it again. Resist. Coarse hair should be reduced in bulk not by pruning but by tricky tapering and layering. Excessive weeding will make your hair bounce up into bush formation.

 

Once you do get your hair into a sleek shape, make every effort to keep it streamlined. Coarse thick hair grows faster than weeds. Never skip a trimming appointment. And speaking of trimming, be meticulous about keeping eyebrows well groomed.

 

If your hair boasts no natural wave, invest in a good permanent or rather the hint of a suggestion of one. Coarse hair takes to perm solution like a dog to a bone. Just enough wave to make your hair controllable is all you really need.

 

Your hairstylist will probably suggest a short hairstyle, depending, of course, on facial structure. Too coarse, too thick, too long hair is too heavy to handle. Short but not too short or else it would be wiry is the most manageable length.

 

Now, sit back and enjoy what is good about coarse hair. It not only takes a good permanent, it takes an excellent setting and is probably the healthiest of all hair. Combing, you have no doubt long since noticed, does next to nothing for your hair.

 

Thick, Coarse, and Curly

You're a human dust mop. Adopt a short, soft hairstyle. Indulge in deep conditioning treatments and shampoos for dry hair. Rub conditioners into hair ends. Use pomade while still damp and put up on large rollers or allow drying naturally and then apply a liquid or spray shine as a final touch.

 

Wiry Hair

Don't fight coarse, straight hair. Work with it. The less you have the better. Have an expert cut and shape it. Use pomade while still damp and put up on large rollers or allow drying naturally and then apply a liquid or spray shine as a final touch.

 

Kinky, Exceptionally Coarse and Curly

Consider seriously the advantages of having hair straightened.

 

Do's…

  • Use a moisturizing shampoo (determined by the condition of your hair) that contains humectants.

  • Avoid using overly hot dryers as well as any other heat producing styling appliance.

  • Wear a hat or scarf if you're going to be exposed to sun or wind for a long time. Also use hair care products containing a UV sunscreen.

  • Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week.

  • Let your hair dry naturally. Blow drying will cause “volume”. And generally, thick hair has just enough volume naturally without adding to it.

  • Wash and dry (this is the only exception for the blow dryer) your hair before you go to bed. This gives your natural oils time to work, smoothing your hair for the morning.

  • Have your hair thinned with thinning shears when you have it cut.  But do not over do it!  A light thinning will give the best results.

  • Use a “molding” product on your hair when it’s dry.

 Don’ts…

  • Use leave-in conditioners which lead to the appearance of dry, dull hair.

  • Wash your hair every day. Rather every 3 – 4 days.

  • Chemically process your hair unless you know for a fact it won’t ruin your hair.

     

     

Natural Curl

Straight haired women may envy the girl with the really curly hair, but if they only knew the price you ringlet beauties have to pay.

 

Each rebellious lock goes its separate way. When the temperature humidity index soars you can barely run a comb through the snarls. When it plummets you are sure your head could double as an emergency transmitter in an electric power breakdown. And when you've been foolish in the sun your hair becomes "a sea of desert."

 

But you do have one of the greatest of all hair blessings body and with this all kinds of beautiful things are possible.

 

Actually, there are many types of curly hair:

 

Slightly Wavy

Nature has given your hair a soft body wave which is perfect for current styles that are more line than curl. 

 

Strongly Wavy

While some experts deplore perming curly hair, others recommend a light permanent on large rollers to widen the waves for styling and to slightly curl straight ends, if you happen to have them.

 

Slightly Curly

This is ideal. You can achieve wonderful results by simply setting with large rollers.

 

More Than Slightly Curly

Some hair stylists recommend straightening with a permanent wave solution. Others recommend using a straightening cream, which they believe is more effective because it is more manageable.

 

Frizzy

Most hair stylists recommend control with a straightening cream. But before you decide on the straight and narrow path for your hair, make a date with a good stylist. For women with too much of a good thing, some hairstylists recommend appealing to gravity with longer hair. Others just as staunchly defend the shorter look, pointing out that longer hair can get completely out of control.

 

 

Just about the kindest cut of all, according to a census of top stylists, is the blunt cut. Tapering encourages curl, as we've seen with straight hair.

 

Curly hair should not be cut quite as short as straight hair. Cut too short, it tends to bounce up and away.

 

Banish an unattractive arid look with regular deep conditioning treatments. Always use a shampoo for dry hair. Follow with a conditioner to add extra softness and manage­ability.

 

If nature has given your hair a pleasing natural pattern as well as curl, take your cue from her. If not, style hair in a direction opposite to that of your natural curl.

 

Both moisture and heat are natural enemies of curly hair. All hair is hygroscopic, but curly hair is especially thirsty for moisture. Wear two bathing caps when you go swimming. Always carry a tiny, folding rain hat. And avoid hot, steamy showers.

 

Keep curly hair out of the sun as much as possible. One reckless day of exposure may have to be paid for by weeks of conditioning.

 

And as if you didn't have enough problems already, coloring hair which is either medium or tightly curled is best when limited to temporary or longer lasting rinses for permanent haircolor makes hair even dryer, fuzzy and even more unmanageable.

 

For the most part, the care for naturally curly hair is the same as for coarse hair. However, there are some tricks that apply to natural curl only.

 

 

Do's…

  • Use a diffuser attachment when drying your hair.

  • Use a moisturizing shampoo (determined by the condition of your hair) that contains humectants.

  • Avoid using overly hot dryers as well as any other heat producing styling appliance.

  • Wear a hat or scarf if you're going to be exposed to sun or wind for a long time. Also use hair care products containing a UV sunscreen.

  • Use a deep conditioning treatment once a week.

 Don’ts…

  • Use leave-in conditioners which lead to the appearance of dry, dull hair.

  • Wash your hair every day. Rather every 3 – 4 days (longer if you can stand it).

  • Chemically process your hair unless you know for a fact it won’t ruin your hair.

  • Work with your curls by using a blow dryer with a diffuser.  The diffuser prevents natural curl from being “whipped” around by the air from the dryer thus causing fly away, frizzy hair.  It instead uses just the heat from the dryer to dry your curls nicely. 

  • Use a styling aid such as pomade, gel or mousse.  How do you choose which product is right for your hair?  The more thick or coarse your hair, the stronger hold you need.

Note: Use products that are “humidity” proof.

  • Keep your hair trimmed on a regular basis.  Naturally curly hair splits easily.  Keep your hair in long layers for a “bouncy” curl effect or one length for a “wavy” effect.

  • Never brush your hair. Your fingers or a wide tooth pick will do the trick.

 

Products to Use

Coarse hair does not need to be shampooed on a daily basis. The recommended amount of times you shampoo will solely depend on your personal preference and familiarity with your own hair (how long you can get away without shampooing), the longer, the better.

 

Use products with asiliconeserum (silicone) to smooth and fill in the open cuticle of your hair strand. This will also seal in moisture and add shine

 

 

Shampoo

 
Moisturizing Shampoo

Contains at least one conditioning agent to add moisture and add shine, making the hair smooth.

 
Color or Highlighted Shampoo

These shampoos are designed to enhance or enrich the color of your hair whether it is your natural color or color treated hair. They are slightly pigmented and are a gradual process. Look for a shampoo that is also moisturizing.

 
Chemically Treated Shampoo

These shampoos are for colored, permed, highlighted, bleached and chemically straitened hair. These shampoos contain ingredients to moisturize and strengthen hair that is weakened by a chemical process.

 
Clarifying Shampoo

These shampoos are formulated to clarify the hair of pollution, chlorine and Styling Products. Do not use on a daily basis but rather two to four times a month.

 

 

Conditioner

 

If you have coarse hair you need a conditioner that contains humectants and adds moisture to dry hair. Use this type of conditioner on a daily basis.

 

You should deep condition on a weekly basis with a rich, moisturizing conditioner formulated for your hair type, to replenish or add the extra moisture your hair lacks.

 

If your hair is also brittle, you should use a masked formulated for your hair type, about two times a month.

 

 

Styling Products

 
Hair Spray

Select a spray by the desired amount of hold. To increase shine or subdue frizz, use accordingly.

 

Pomades, Glossers and Shiners

Apply them…SPARINGLY! Liquefy the product between your palms and smooth it over the surface.

 
Waxes

Rub between the palms of your hands then apply to all of your hair or just “spot” apply where you want more definition i.e. sideburns, lift roots straight up for spiking.

 

 

How to Style Your Hair

The key to shinny, coarse hair or hair with natural curl is...

 

To Learn More HairStyling Techniques and How To's including;

 

Hot Appliances Smoothing/Straightening

Hair Brush and Blow Dryer

Non Heat Rollers

Hot Rollers

Curling Iron

Straightening Iron

 

Grey Hair

"Only the good dye young." A famous actress said turning a cliché when asked why she prefers to polish her silvery locks rather than to bleach or color. But, it's the rare stylist who would agree with the popular actress. Most believe there are few mature women with faces youthful enough to carry gray or white hair.

 

And come to think of it, they do have a point.

 

Too Young To Go Gray?

Even though everyone knows you are in your twenties, you don't want to be the only gray head among your peers. Hide uninvited gray hair with a long lasting (one month) rinse especially designed to bury gray. It adds highlights and conditions, but does not leave brassy top notes.

 

Approaching Forty, But You Want To Keep Your Age Secret?

Color your hair at least two shades lighter for flattery as well as anti gray security. Fading hair and eyes require a softer background.

 

Color lighter whether you're dark haired and going gray dramatically, or blonde and going gray in the dullest of all possible fashions.

 

Going To Let Nature Take Its Course?

Just because your hair is graying is no reason to let it go dowdy, too. There's no need for depressing gray heads anymore, thanks to modern styling and the wide spectrum of gray glamorizing rinses.

 

Grey Hair Style

Rome had a glorious Silver Age. So can you. Inaugurate it with a new style. Don't coast along on the same old hairstyle you've been wearing for years...

 

To Learn More About Grey Hair Including:

Permanents

Shampoos

Conditioning

Rinses