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Home Haircolor
How To
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Your New 'Do in Different Colors
Your most flattering hair color
is very likely not the one nature gave you but one waiting in a
bottle, ready to be released like a good genie to spread its colorful magic
through your hair. And even though Mother Nature may have given you dishwater hair and pale lips,
she also gave you an undefeatable spirit.
Unless you are a member of a distinct minority you
probably began experimenting with lipstick soon after you emerged from the
cradle and then before you new it you were dabbling in haircolor.
Pick a color, any color, and it can be yours. It can look
so natural even your hairstylist won't know.
Today's woman is talked about not when she takes to the
color bottle but when she doesn't and allows her hair to go dull and drab.
Ask any leading hair stylist and he will answer: "A woman
should do what is most becoming. If her face is youthful, she can let her
hair go gray, if she cares to. But how many women with gray hair have
youthful faces?"
"Nearly all women look younger with color. Usually haircolor in the original shade is preferable. However, vivid contrasts and
daring colors can be extremely chic on women whose personalities are geared
to experiment with latest trends."
Why are so many women deciding to be no longer just a
shade away from hair beauty?
Science has evolved not only natural looking colors but
faster methods of application. Color can be added in the privacy of your
kitchen or in a grand salon.
Color not only brightens a woman's hair, it brightens her
life. It improves her silhouette, camouflages faulty features, makes eyes
look brighter, complexion clearer and adds body to troublesome baby fine
hair.
After years of curiosity, balanced by inertia or
indecision, you've decided to cast your hair upon the coloring basin.
Comparatively simple, safe and speedy as the process is
today to become a blonde, brunette, or redhead by formula rather than by
nature requires patience, time, money and the right natural coloring.
While young girls can wear almost any color, older women
must be decidedly more careful. After about thirty five, women who insist on
trying to recapture the hair shade of their youth are actually defeating
their own purposes.
Cling to the same color yes, but cling to it several
shades lighter. Take your cue from nature, which lightens hair when
complexions fade to make a more flattering frame for mature features. Strive
for softer blondes, pinkish reds and lighter browns as you near forty.
Establishing any hard and fast rules of hair color are
almost impossible, colorists agree. Complexions are constant variables.
These few principles do seem to apply generally:
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Women with pale, light, nearly white skins can wear a
wide range of colors successfully, especially the dramatic colors:
pastel blondes, bright reds, chestnuts and blacks.
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Creamier skins may also add copper and auburn to
their repertoire.
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Women with pink and white skins can use all the
colors their whiter skinned sisters use. They look well in black,
especially if their eyes are blue, light or dark auburn and all shades
of brown.
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Women with sallow or olive skin should avoid ashen or
silver tones. These shades make them appear gray all over. So should
older women. A soft honey or beige tone is more flattering.
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Sallow skinned or older women should also avoid
reddish gold tones.
Get your hair in tip top condition with moisturizing and
or repair treatments.
Snip a lock of hair from the back of your head, for a
record of your exact natural color.
If you perm your hair too do it at least one week,
preferably two, before you schedule your color. Two chemical treatments too
closely placed can weaken hair. A permanent also tends to discolor colored
hair and sometimes leaves hair so porous it absorbs too much color.
It’s wise to approach your new color step by step, as
slowly as possible, unless, of course you’re contemplating a switch from
auburn to violet, in which that’s the fast lane, not the slow road.
Permanent, not so permanent, temporary, not quite
temporary, long lasting temporary…There are so many types of haircoloring
on the market you may not know where to start.
If you are merely flirting with color, start with
temporaries. Try one shade and if you don't like that, try another and no
harm done. If all you are really seeking is new life for drab hair,
temporary colors may be all you need to make hair look fresher, younger,
brighter.
On your hair today and gone tomorrow, temporaries come in
several forms and degrees of stability. But no matter how they come out of
the bottle or aerosol container, they all color hair by coating rather than
penetrating the hair shaft. Then they all wash out with the next shampoo.
Color Enhancing
Shampoos
Depositing the least amount of color of all temporaries,
they are best used to enhance hair of the same color as the shampoo.
Color Rinses
Available in a beautiful rainbow of colors, they
intensify natural color, add highlights, wash away dulling soap film, and
blend in (not to be confused with covering) gray.
White, silver and steel rinses remove yellow from gray
hair, while ash or platinum rinses drab brassy blonde tones. Pastel rinses
double as colors for blonde or pre-lightened hair.
Rinses can intensify natural hair color, but they cannot
lighten it. Rinses can do nothing for hair darker than the rinse shade
except add highlights. You can apply a red rinse on blonde hair, a black
rinse on brown hair, a brown rinse on red hair, but you cannot go from brown
to blonde with a temporary rinse.
Natural shades are used for reviving faded, sun bleached
or permanent stained hair. Light pastel rinses ranging from cloud white to
lilac, with beiges in between, are applied over bleached or pale hair for
soda fountain confection effects. As these colors wash off after a shampoo,
it is possible to be a different color blonde every week.
Apply color rinses to hair that has been freshly
shampooed with a mild product.
The trick is not to let porous areas grab color too
quickly. Sun bleached crowns and permed ends, as well as hair that has been
bleached or colored or washed with a strong shampoo, are more apt to be
porous.
Apply color first to roots, which are less apt to be
porous, then wait until just before you are ready to rinse before combing
the color through the entire head of hair.
Demi
Permanent HairColor
Longer lasting rinses are
the halfway houses on the road between temporary and permanent color.
Shampooed through the
hair and then allowed to remain until the desired shade is reached, they
impart more color than temporary rinses by gently penetrating the hair
shaft without the aid of a developer like peroxide.
They last through three
to eight shampoos, depending upon the brand used, do a better job of
covering gray than rinses, and are formulated not to rub off on
pillows. Unlike colors and bleaches they leave no telltale lines of
demarcation as they make their graceful exit.
HairColor Shampoo
When the mirror on the
wall says this is the best color of all, there is still another border
town before permanent color, the color shampoo. Mix equal parts of
shampoo, peroxide and color. Choose color in a gold shade if your hair
is light brown, red gold if your hair is brown or reddish, ash if it's a
pale tone.
Permanent HairColor
A permanent color lasts until hair grows out. It cannot
be shampooed out of hair, although a little bit does go down the drain
with each washing. There are two type of permanent colors… tints and lighteners, once less euphemistically
called bleaches.
Highlighting
An inspired idea for the
woman who doesn't want to go all the way to a lightener shade. Wide,
swashbuckling streaks are usually most becoming on younger women. Spicy,
allover frosting of tiny strands does the most for more mature women.
Anyone can follow the
directions contained in a store bought box of haircolor but knowing how a
product works will help you achieve the best color for you.
Having a basic understanding
of haircoloring and hair color will help you determine which color, tone and
level best suits you.
First, let me clarify the
difference between…
Haircolor
Refers to products and
services
Hair Color
Is the color of your hair
Tone
Describes the warmth or
coolness of a color
Note:
Using a haircolor that compliments your natural skin tone, will give you the
most natural hair color result. Determining your tone will also help you
choose which shades of make up and color of clothes look best on you too.
What tone are you?
There are two easy ways to
determine your tone:
1. Take a close look at your
eye color
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If your eyes contain red,
orange, yellow or gold flecks through the iris, your tone is WARM.
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If your eyes contain
black, gray/brown, gray/green, blue, violet, grey or white fleck through
the iris, your tone is COOL.
2. Look at the palm of your
hand. What color do you see?
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Gray, green or yellow
your tone is cool or neutral. Warm colors aren’t recommended however, if
you’d like to wear a warm color it should be a "dark" warm)
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Red, red/brown or
blue/red your tone is cool or neutral.
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Gold/brown, gold or peach
your tone is warm.
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A combination of pink and
yellow you have neutral tone.
Warm -
Think of fall, deep and rich.
Cool -
Think of spring, light and
pastel.
Level
Lightness or darkness of hair
color
Why is it important
to know your level?
Most manufacturers use this
number system now. If you’re familiar with what level you are, it makes
deciding which color to choose much easier.
The HSM subscription
contains even more information!
View Your
New 'Do in Different Colors
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